tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74278686816477674282024-03-13T14:20:14.944-07:0021st Century PilgrimageExploration, contemplation, adventure - southern Jordan and beyond... Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-50224921276939860932015-08-01T06:24:00.000-07:002015-08-01T06:24:18.282-07:00October 2011 Reflections<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="il">The next few blog posts transition writings from my group updates onto the blog... and offer some nice memories of the past few years. :) Enjoy! :)</span></div>
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excerpt from "From Jordan: Greetings and October Update"</div>
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<span class="il">'<i>Greetings</i></span><i> from Wadi Rum!<u></u><u></u></i></div>
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<i>In <span class="il">October</span>, the desert starts to cool down. We experience warm, balmy days and beautiful cool nights. The best place to sit is outside under the stars. This week, the moon is waxing full and that, of course, means another round of <a href="http://wadirumfullmoongathering.com/" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">full moon gatherings</a>. It is my favorite time of the month as, each evening, I walk home without a flashlight.<u></u><u></u></i></div>
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<i>I just returned from a week in the Czech Republic. In Prague, I had the privilege of attending the re-dedication of the Woodrow Wilson Train Station. The mutual ideals of democratic governance held by American President Wilson and the President of the first Czech Republic, Tomas G. Masaryk, great admirers of each other, served as the foundation of the first Czechoslovak Republic. Former US Secretary of State Madeleine Albright spoke at the re-dedication and I was fascinated to hear her simple advice to those seeking to promote democracy on the individual level world-wide: be respectful of the differences between humans and work to serve others - without imposing your ideas on them. Her guidance seems appropriate in life as well as in promoting good governance. Her assertion that states should base their systems of governance on morality instead of ethnicity also offered cause for reflection, as I considered the events of the past year in <span class="il">Jordan</span> and our neighbors.'</i></div>
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-6230396689257185992014-11-03T12:08:00.002-08:002014-11-03T12:20:00.093-08:00Ponderings on Gender<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In writing about my experience wearing <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">nikaab, </i>I find numerous challenges.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>How to write about gender in a region where the emotions attached to
gender roles, masculinity and femininity are so strong?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How to negotiate the clash of culture and
religion with their simultanoues melding in the creation of gender norms that absolutely repulse
some, yet are held by others as pillars of constancy in a rapidly changing
world?</div>
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How can I accurately portray the gender roles that exist in
the Arab Muslim society in which I find myself – recognizing also that the
world of southern Jordan that I experience on a regular basis – Aqaba, Wadi
Rum, Tweisi – with the rare visits to Rashiddiyeh, Wadi Musa and Disi are full
of smaller communities, families and tribes each of whom take a slightly
different view of religion, culture and gender? In Tweisi, where I live, most women cover their faces. In Disi, a mile away, most women do not.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After eight years in Jordan, my general understanding of the unwritten
rules of this society has allowed me to move past generalizations around Arab
or Muslim society to recognize that each micro-community of human beings has
its own variation on national and cultural rules.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More and more, I find myself experiencing
others simply as humans living on this planet in a multitude of ways.</div>
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Women and our place in society has evolved rapidly over the
past 100 years as we move from the private space of the home and family into a
more visible public space that, until recently, was occupied predominantly by
men.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gender roles are changing on an
international scale and the region in which I live is just one of many that is experiencing
a struggle with these changes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While
gender inequality exists throughout the world, I believe that the Arab Islamic
dress codes of the Middle East call particular attention to inequality in this
region because they are such a visible expression of the perceived repression
of women.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Who is doing the
repressing?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Time and again I hear people
from my own educated Western society state: ‘well, men force women to dress
that way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How can you accept to live in
a society such as this?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Don’t you think
that Islam is a backward religion?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How
can you call yourself Muslim when your religion advocates such repression?’</div>
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I have yet to meet a Muslim woman who has been forced to
cover herself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s just not that
simple.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The nuances of social rules,
limitations and restrictions are such that women (and men) may be expected or
encouraged to dress a certain way … as is the case in any society.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Women cover themselves for many reasons – and
yes – one of those is due to the strict interpretations of Islam that emanate
out of Saudi Arabia, due to the practice and efforts of the well-financed
Muslim Brotherhood … a member once told me he’d gift me a scarf, if I covered my
head with it and more often than not the simple desire of people just wanting
to do the right thing and to be that truly devout Muslim in front of their
friends and relatives in a society in which god and religion play a fundamental
role.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again – I should note that
southern Jordan is its own unique community with its own unique brand and
interpretation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s been years since I
spent a long period of time in Amman and whenever I do visit – which is usually
to the western, westernized part of town – I’m struck by the extreme contrast
in values between urban, liberal Amman and the rural towns and villages of the
south.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But isn’t this the case in most
countries?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Brooklyn is worlds away from
Cazenovia, New York.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So what are the
values systems that I’ve encountered around women in their role in society in
the towns and villages, taxis and buses, streets and alleyways, deserts and mountains
of rural, southern Jordan?</div>
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In these spaces, women care for family and men are
bread-winners – women occupy the private space of the home managing
child-rearing and other domestic tasks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Men negotiate the public space –working in tourism, for the government,
as traders of legal and, sometimes, illegal goods.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While many women work in the public space,
more often than not a woman’s professional life ends when she has children or with
marriage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the villages, people marry
young and family life is at the core of the society.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Respectable women do not voluntarily wander
into the world of men – and when they do they negotiate these space with
incredible care - being sure to protect their honor and the honor of their families.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a result, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">nikaab</i> is, for many, a way of preserving the private space while
travelling through the public space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s kind of like taking your tent or turtle shell with you as go, a means of softening the interactions withoutside world. While the norm for women is to exist openly in the private space, there are exceptions to every rule
and every generalization.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In my early
years in southern Jordan, I worked with the headmistress of a girls’ school in
a desert town who was known throughout the area as a very public force with
which to be reckoned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Shakseet-ha gawaiyeh,</i>’ people told me
with awe in their voices.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘Her character
is strong.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over the years, I’ve met a
number of women who occupy roles in the public space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their common characteristic has typically
been possession of a strong character both in reputation and in reality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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In a similar yet even more restricted way, respectable men
do not to enter the private space of women.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When their wives entertain friends, men typically leave the home or confine themselves to one room in order to
ensure the comfort of the female guest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Each home has a guest room for male visitors – corralling their
manliness in one corner of the house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
a recent conversation around the Ryan Reynolds’ film ‘The Change-up” in which
Ryan Reynolds and Jason Batemen switch bodies and lives for a few weeks, I
discussed with a male friend what we would do if he and I switched lives for a
day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘If I were a woman?’ he
pondered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘I’d go to see what the women
do!”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I paused, empty-handed – I know
what the men do in Jordan – no need to use a fictional body swap to see
that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What a privilege to be able to
access both worlds!</div>
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So given these strict, universally understood rules around gender segregation, where does that leave a single, foreign woman in southern Jordan? At times, a beauty, at times, a curse but ultimately a space to be negotiated with creativity and compassion. I'll let you ponder that thought and return to it in my next post - as I continue to reflect and share on the <i>nikaab</i> story. Enjoy your day!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Public Space, October 2013</td></tr>
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-60120704066843768272014-09-01T10:08:00.001-07:002014-09-10T13:24:49.709-07:00A 'Free' Ride<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i>I've been in the US for a few months now - where I also dress to fit in - usually shorts and t-shirts in the humid summer months. As I reflect back on my clothing choices this spring - the topic of fashion and community continues to busy my thoughts. How does what I wear define me and express my values? What messages does my material presentation send to others? And how can that message be interpreted or used to make a statement? </i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>One particular trip to Aqaba this spring stands out in my mind. </i><br />
-<br />
I've just finished my weekly visit to Rum Village and head to Aqaba for the day. One of my colleagues drops me off at the Rest House, located at the edge of the village, to wait for the bus. The morning sun shines a golden light over the scene; the world is set aglow with vivid oranges, reds and browns. I stand quietly by a sandstone wall as people move around me. Guys from the village hang with their camels, green-plated tourist minivans packed with sightseers come and go. It's a bustling area and I'm a silent black smudge in a sea of gold.<br />
<br />
'Hey!' a guy shouts at me. 'Are you going to Aqaba?'<br />
<br />
'N3m. (Yes).' I answer and nod.<br />
<br />
He's a local Rum guide and he beckons me over to a gold mini van with tourist plates. I cross the road to where he stands. As he opens the back, he gestures at me to put my bag in.<br />
<br />
'Do you need anything?' I ask - a gentle way of asking if anyone needs to be paid for the ride.<br />
<br />
'You're Muslim, right?,' he replies. 'Don't worry about it.'<br />
<br />
We walk around to the side of the van where a group of French women stand together. As far as contrasts go, our clothing couldn't be more different. They wear colorful short shorts and tank tops. I'm covered in black from head to foot.<br />
<br />
'Take this nice girl wherever she wants to go.' He gestures at me again as he speaks to the driver. <br />
<br />
Their tour leader, who speaks French and Arabic, appears to be of North African descent - she's got bright, curly bleached blonde hair held back by a bandana. I wonder if the bandana is an attempt at modesty. She glances at me and then leans in to kiss cheek the guy who offered the ride. It's clear that we express our modesty differently in this space. :)<br />
<br />
The French women stand back as I enter the van first - straight into the back seat.<br />
<br />
They ask me a few simple questions.<br />
<br />
'It's surprising. Her English is quite good,' says the tour leader in French. I pretend not to understand.<br />
<br />
The rest of the ride is uneventful. I reflect that very few things in life are free. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aL-Ycr6Oj2A/VASn2Wa1gFI/AAAAAAAAFAE/UMH3MtojG4Q/s1600/IMG_5320-1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aL-Ycr6Oj2A/VASn2Wa1gFI/AAAAAAAAFAE/UMH3MtojG4Q/s1600/IMG_5320-1024x768.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside the Rest House, Wadi Rum</td></tr>
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-50108862281256688072014-07-14T02:54:00.001-07:002014-07-15T09:45:54.124-07:00Action-Interaction<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Note: Some of the sequences of events and identities of
individuals involved have been changed to protect privacy of my friends and
contacts.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After faced with the apparent security issue that my
frenetic dress code was causing, I decided to bite the bullet and fully commit
to <i>nikaab</i> for a month – as a means of
deciding as to whether I could wear it forever at the end of that month. I spoke to my neighbor, who supported the
idea, and was off. A commitment to covering
my face in all spaces outside of my home was a tall order given that for every
place I frequent where <i>nikaab</i> is
embraced there is another where it is rejected.
No longer did I feel comfortable accompanying friends to Aqaba’s
international restaurants and hotels – even the public consumption of food was
now a challenge. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fortunately, I am surrounded by a community of friends and
neighbors, who regardless of their opinion, acted in great support of the
choice I had made – either by speaking supportively, offering intellectual
challenges to my thinking or by simply explaining to others my intention and
actions. (It’s a strange thing for an
unmarried foreign woman working in tourism to choose to cover her face – lots of
explaining resulted.) <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Each day brings a new lesson as I continue to explore intention,
action and interaction.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ve been doing reservations work for a well-established,
highly professional, locally run camp in Wadi Rum. On a weekly basis, I travel to my place of
work to share the upcoming week’s reservations with the camp’s owner, to plan
the coming week’s work and to check out any changes to the camp – a space that
is in a constant state of dynamic change – as we add solar power, renovate the
bathrooms and make small yet important improvements to the service that we
provide to our guests. Our staff (excluding
myself) is 100% male and Arab and our guests are probably around 90% non-Arab,
non-Muslim.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“Your English is
excellent!,” one German man tells me.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“I’m Italian
American. I was born in the United States.”
I explain.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Women, in particular,
are curious to understand my dress choice.
Every one with whom I speak is accepting of a choice made to better
integrate culturally.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>One morning, an
Italian guest asks to take my photo.
It’s clear he is under the impression that I’m a local woman. I feel confused as to how to respond – as a
general rule, local women are never photographed, thus ensuring protection of honor
and identity. I’m not local but I’m
covered. I share this quandary with one
of my co-workers. It’s your choice, he
responds.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>The following week,
staff and guests sit around the fire, enjoying tea and music. ‘Lina,’ says one of my colleagues, ‘tell the
guests that you are a foreigner.’ A good save. <o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
--<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For years, I’ve been friends with a foreign woman in the
area who owns an upscale desert accommodation and caters both to foreign guests
and to local weekenders. The atmosphere
is reminiscent of Aqaba’s international hotels and dress code runs the gamut of
possibilities from the traditional to the modern; tank-top to <i>hijab</i>; middle-class to wealthy. Another friend has recently started a farming
project there and the reservations manager is also from outside of Jordan. We’ve dubbed ourselves the <i>asheera al ajnebiyat </i>(the tribe of the
foreign ladies), and have been known to travel through the desert as a pack intimidating
camels and scavenging cardboard boxes to use as mulch for the farm project. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>I visit one evening
for dinner. We sit in a comfortable
corner of the dining area. For two of my
friends, it’s cocktail hour. Our group
draws curious glances from the guests. <o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Friends arrive from
Aqaba with visitors from abroad in tow. <o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>‘Alena,’ says one of
them. ‘I absolutely cannot talk to you with that on your face.’<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>‘Why not?’ I challenge
her.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>‘I just can’t. It’s fine when you are in my house and I can
see your face. But it doesn’t seem fair
that I can’t see your face but you can see mine while we are talking!’<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>We decide to sit back
to back while we converse.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I reflect that I have always used the faces of other humans
as a door through which to identify and to connect with them. The few friends of mine who permanently wear <i>nikaab</i> either stand out in their dress
choice or are women with whom I engage predominantly in private settings. Wearing <i>nikaab</i>
publicly has challenged my basic assumptions about how I interact with and am
identified by other humans.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3BeKz2_vI1E/U8OopQRbONI/AAAAAAAAE_M/p6JnH2K-mIo/s1600/Unknown-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3BeKz2_vI1E/U8OopQRbONI/AAAAAAAAE_M/p6JnH2K-mIo/s1600/Unknown-3.jpeg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-70439025935558962092014-06-24T15:36:00.001-07:002014-08-05T09:10:34.035-07:00Dis-covered<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i style="background-color: #ddcc99; color: #574002; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 20px;">Note: Some of the sequences of events and identities of individuals involved have been changed to protect privacy of my friends and contacts.</i><br />
<br />
A friend owns a hotel near the sea. I stop by for a visit. It’s in a part of town frequented by tourists
– domestic and foreign … there are local nightclubs in the area and alcohol is
available. His niece runs the reception
desk – she majored in English in university and is the only girl employed in this part of town.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘What’s that you’ve got covering your face!?’ he exclaims as
I arrive.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘I feel more comfortable this way,’ I reply, ’no one bothers
me.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘What? You are so beautiful that you can’t walk down the
street without being bothered?!’<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘Nooooo,’ I’m taken aback by this question. ‘I just get less
attention and feel happier.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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“You shouldn’t hide your beautiful face! Just cover your hair and go about your
business.’ <o:p></o:p></div>
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‘Well, I don’t cover it everywhere,’ I retort, as if this
lessens the impact, ‘just some places.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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A few days later, I
bump into his niece in town – she pulls me aside. ‘My uncle told me that the authorities were asking
– why is this girl covering her face?’<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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‘WHAT?!” My stomach drops into my feet. Since when are my fashion choices worthy of the attention of the authorities?<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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We go to a nearby café, order some tea and discuss. ‘You know,’ she explains, ’they just want to
know who is in the hotel and sometimes girls that cover their faces, they are
not behaving in good ways. Also, people
think it’s strange that you cover your face in some places and not in others. Like maybe you are doing something bad? We have to be careful here. We are between so many different countries
and try to keep ourselves safe.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘I don’t understand,’ I reply, ‘when I visited the police
station last week, they were pleased. I
even told them that I don’t wear it in all places.’ <o:p></o:p></div>
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‘It’s difficult for them to tell you this directly – maybe
because you are a foreigner... I don’t know.
Just be careful, please.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I pause and consider the ramifications of my actions. It was never my intention to endanger
national security, I was simply looking to my personal security.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I call my neighbor, perhaps the most-level headed man in
southern Jordan.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘The authorities are upset that I wear <i>nikaab</i>,’ I stutter over the phone, my message dramatized by the
onset of tears, as my emotions overwhelm me.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘Lina,’ he pauses and collects his thoughts.<o:p></o:p></div>
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‘You know, I was afraid about this. To wear <i>nikaab</i>,
you cannot take it on and off again. If
you are going to wear it, you must ALWAYS wear it. If you wear it in some places and not in others,
the people will say – who is this girl?
Why she wears it here and not there?
What is she hiding? The police
must think carefully about the security of our country because we are in a
delicate position – between Israel, Egypt, Syria, Saudi Arabia. I ask you one thing – if you are going to
wear <i>nikaab</i>, please wear it always. Do not take it off. I will support you whatever you do.’<o:p></o:p></div>
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His words permeate into my consciousness as I realize
that I have a huge decision to make.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5tQjLzE2m0w/U6n9Ai_ysWI/AAAAAAAAE-0/8mgGFHkmJ-8/s1600/10415611_549770895131571_4666244684731864727_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5tQjLzE2m0w/U6n9Ai_ysWI/AAAAAAAAE-0/8mgGFHkmJ-8/s1600/10415611_549770895131571_4666244684731864727_n.jpg" height="164" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo c. <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/My-life-With-Hijab/413223328786329">My Life with Hijab</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-40816490172318102162014-05-07T11:45:00.003-07:002014-06-24T15:23:31.091-07:00Action/Reaction<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Note: names have been changed to protect privacy.
:)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the community where I’ve lived for the past year
and a half, most women cover their faces in public. The attitude
toward the face-covering stems from a mixture of religion and
culture. Some women cover their faces out of devotion but others do it
simply to protect their identity when travelling in the public world of men –
outside of home and tribe. 3<i>shan akhud ra7tee</i>. This phrase,
which I've heard from many covered women translates roughly to 'take a rest, be
comfortable, not be stressed out.' When one is used to living in a
domestic feminine world at home in the village - full of sisters, aunts
and cousins - food, babies and softness - diving into the rough world of men is
jarring. Though <i>niqab/heimar </i>is<i> </i>a dress code that is
not traditional to the Bedouin community - as Islamic interpretations have
spread and changed and as the post-settlement Bedouin populations have been
exposed to different influences - the <i>niqab</i> has gained popularity for a
variety of reasons. While it can be nearly impossible to separate culture
and religion, I find that some women cover for God, while others do it for
comfort, for family, upon request of their husbands or simply because their
older sisters do it (and in two cases, against the wishes of male relatives).
However, in some cases, women who might cover their faces when travelling
do not cover their faces in the safety of the family neighborhood. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I first started wearing the <i>niqab</i>,
which I did with little understanding or guidance (what can I say? I'm
famous for spontaneous decision-making!), I picked and chose the places where I
wore it. In self-defined private spaces – like my neighborhood, place of
work and in the homes of friends, I showed my face. In public spaces, I
covered it. Here is what I found.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Walking through Aqaba with a covered face offers a
dramatic change from what I have previously experienced. In the souq,
where the Egyptian store-minders are excited to sell and promote\ their goods
with a shout of hello! or welcome! – all I hear is a gentle ‘please, ma’am, buy
from us.’ No one else looks my way. When walking with a female
friend who covers her head and wears either the long-robed abaya or jilbab, she
notes a difference in her treatment as well – no one speaks to her when she is
with me.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Every space that I return to with a covered face, I
wonder what the reaction will be. I’m familiar with the different
opinions on <i>niqab</i>, but experience brings a new level of understanding.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>After a month in-country, it’s time to renew my
visa. I head to the police station. Although a government entity
and therefore staffed by both genders, individual police officers, as in most
places, tend to a more traditional mindset. I am met with incredible enthusiasm
by the two male officers handling my renewal. </i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“Are you Muslim?”</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“Yes.”</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“Since how long?”</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“About five years.”</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“And how long have you worn this?”</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“Just a month – but not everywhere.” (As we
shall see, this honest statement will later cause some challenges.)</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“That’s fine. As a Muslim, you are only
required to cover your head.”</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>I nod politely. The conversation shifts as
one of the officers inspects my passport.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“It’s so great you are Muslim! Hey!
You’re born in 19--! I’M born in 19--! You’re birthday is 2-
October?! Mine is the 1-th! I’m just ten days older than
you!” </i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>He’s as a giddy as a school boy. I cease
conversation and sit quietly until my renewal is complete.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I begin to notice that a different dress code
attracts a different type but does not necessarily stymie one’s attractiveness.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>It’s been a while since I visited my old
neighborhood. My former neighbors are truly gentle people – their love of
food, farming and a quiet life is one that I’ve always appreciated. They don’t
stray far from home and when I think of them, I am reminded of Tolkein’s
hobbits. My desert hobbits are among the most Muslim of people I’ve
known, taking their practice seriously – keeping their prayers, acting with
generosity and compassion, open to learning and sharing with those who are
different and nearly always reserving judgment. The neighborhood is full
of olive trees, grape arbors and fruit trees. A deep sense of peace
emanates from their land. The most devout ladies in this neighborhood
wear niqab and their intention is a religious one. </i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Selma and I are sitting on the veranda, sharing tea
and conversation. My niqab is flipped up over my head - my face
revealed. Her teenage niece, visiting from the city, drops by.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“Lina! </i>(That's me.) <i>Mabrouk il
niqab!” (Congratulations on your niqab!)</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>I blush and stammer a polite thank you.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I start to understand that for faithful Muslims the
choice to wear niqab is one not to be taken lightly and that when worn by a
practicing Muslim – eg. not for reasons of comfort, family or protection -
comes an expectation of behavior and practice. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
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<span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZrOao01T6A/U2p-6pXVhNI/AAAAAAAAE8g/O-0qGQt9jjU/s1600/3Tweisi.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZrOao01T6A/U2p-6pXVhNI/AAAAAAAAE8g/O-0qGQt9jjU/s1600/3Tweisi.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">My 'hood.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-26081692141285583162014-05-04T04:14:00.002-07:002014-05-07T11:10:43.561-07:00Marhaba Ya Uhti<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I wore <i>niqab</i> for
the first time during the four hour ride by shared taxi from Amman to Aqaba. I arrived to Amman’s south bus station
shortly after dark. Clad in a cream
colored scarf and niqab, I presented as an educated, yet devout woman –
possibly travelling for work or family reasons.
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“<i>Marhaba ya uhti</i>,”
the driver spoke softly to me – using a polite tone and a greeting appropriate
to an <i>uht </i>(sister) – applied
to a woman in recognition of her devotion to Islamic practice. <o:p></o:p></div>
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“Would you like to sit in front?” he continued. I nodded quietly – accepting the offer of a seat
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passengers. <o:p></o:p></div>
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This was the first shared taxi ride from Amman to the south in
which I was asked no personal questions, offered no cigarettes and treated with
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-68891399401169996482014-04-21T01:14:00.001-07:002014-05-07T11:10:04.086-07:00Material Modesty: Framing the Niqab<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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One of my favorite things about living in southern Jordan is
the sense of community. I came across a
set of statistics once that placed the population of Aqaba Governorate at
around 103,000 people in 2005 – though the population has grown in 9
years, I can’t imagine that it has grown much.
As a result of this small population and the family-based nature of the
society – people know each other and they know each other’s families. It’s hard to come across a stranger in
southern Jordan – if you don’t know the person in front of you – you can be sure that you have someone in common. As a result,
I find that I often encounter people that I know and like. On the flip side, is the sense sometimes that everyone knows, for better or for worse, one’s business. While this creates a strong sense of
accountability in one’s behavior – for me, as the only single, foreign woman in
the Wadi Rum area, I sometimes feel like a particularly intriguing microscope specimen. There are days when I wish that I was
invisible and there are also days when I wish that I didn’t have to explain
myself to every taxi driver, shopkeeper and restaurant tout – particularly
during my weekly visits to Aqaba.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Fortunately, traditional Arab society provides a solution,
for women, to the problem of anonymity through an item of clothing known by a
variety of names internationally, but locally, as the <i>niqab</i> or <i>heimar</i>. For those interested in a technical
difference, the <i>niqab</i> is the piece of fabric that covers just the face while
the <i>heimar</i> is a combined head and face covering that leaves the eyes
visible. Neither of these should be
confused with the <i>burqa</i> which covers the entire body.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The tradition of women covering their faces is a pre-Islamic
one which dates back at least to the Roman Empire, where women of wealth and
influence covered their heads and, in some cases, faces to differentiate
themselves from the commoners. Upper
class women in the Ottoman Empire covered their faces as well but the tradition
of face-covering did not arrive to the Arabian Peninsula until the 1700s. From
a religious perspective, the main mention of modesty requirements vis a vis dress in the Koran is as follows in Sura An-Nur (24:30-31):</div>
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24:30<br />
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<a class="action_toTop" href="http://quran.com/24/30-31#0" style="color: #999999; display: block; outline: none; padding: 1px 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; z-index: 0;"><span style="background-image: url(http://quran.com/images/ayah_actions.png); background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; display: block; float: left; height: 11px; margin: 1px 4px 0px 0px; position: relative; width: 11px; z-index: 0;"></span>to top</a></div>
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<a class="key" href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=7427868681647767428" name="24:31" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial; font-size: 12px; outline: none; position: relative; text-align: -webkit-auto; z-index: 0;"></a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial; font-size: 12px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"></span><br />
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24:31<br />
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<a class="action_toTop" href="http://quran.com/24/30-31#0" style="color: #999999; display: block; outline: none; padding: 1px 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; z-index: 0;"><span style="background-image: url(http://quran.com/images/ayah_actions.png); background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; display: block; float: left; height: 11px; margin: 1px 4px 0px 0px; position: relative; width: 11px; z-index: 0;"></span>to top</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Different translations are available <a href="http://corpus.quran.com/translation.jsp?chapter=24&verse=30">24:30</a> and <a href="http://corpus.quran.com/translation.jsp?chapter=24&verse=31">24:31</a>.</div>
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You'll note that while both men and women are asked to be modest - there is no clearly prescribed Islamic dress. :) As with most divinely revealed scripture, the Koran leaves a great deal to interpretation. In fact, one of the most beautiful things (and one of the great challenges) about Islam is the freedom that it gives to its scholars and practitioners to interpret the religion to their time and place. As a result, a cultural practice of face-covering which is equated with a high degree of modesty has been deemed by some scholars as a practice that is most suitable for women wishing to express their religious devotion through material means. It is these interpretations which dominate the practice of Islam in the towns and villages of Jordan's southern desert - the communities in which I choose to live.</div>
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<br /></div>
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That said, my initial decision to wear <i>niqab </i>was motivated not by religion but by a desire for anonymity in the pursuit of daily tasks outside the house - hence mostly expedience. Modesty was a part of my motivation in the sense of modesty as an effort to not draw attention to oneself and one's actions. I've worn <i>niqab</i> now in most public spaces for the past two months. The addition of a small piece of strategically placed fabric to my dress has been opened doors of inquiry, controversy and learning that I never would have imagined. I've learned more about myself and my faith and gained an even greater understanding of the values of the community in which I live. I'm happy to share the story with you.</div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-67679810857106343012014-03-11T02:27:00.002-07:002014-03-11T02:27:20.259-07:00Second Coming ;)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
About five days after returning to Jordan, I was thrilled to welcome the Steyer family to Wadi Rum. Long-time followers of this blog may remember <a href="http://21stcenturypilgrims.blogspot.com/2010/02/law-of-desert.html">Law in the Desert</a>, one of my first posts. The Steyers were among my first clients in Jordan and I have grown quite fond of them, as we've stayed in touch over the years. Together we spent a day in Wadi Rum and a day in Petra - as it was mom Margaret's sojourn to Jordan. We dined at <a href="http://www.al-qantarah.com/">Al Qantarah Restaurant</a>, my favorite Wadi Musa restaurant. They do a great set menu of local Jordanian cuisine. Here we are, having enjoyed a tasty evening meal!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LtOQ-6TxTnM/Ux7W0IAL-2I/AAAAAAAAE4I/OyeIr2oQ-C0/s1600/photo-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LtOQ-6TxTnM/Ux7W0IAL-2I/AAAAAAAAE4I/OyeIr2oQ-C0/s1600/photo-1.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-67127467183500588492014-03-08T03:53:00.001-08:002014-03-08T03:53:47.311-08:00New York - Istanbul - Aqaba<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
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Returning to Jordan after four months in the US – the
longest period of time that I’ve been away since arriving here in 2006 – was not as I anticipated. After
the significant shock of readjusting to life in the US, a country that I
haven’t called home for 12 years, I imagined that my return to southern
Jordan would be as a stranger and that I would struggle to adjust to changes that have taken place - both personally and professionally in my life - since leaving Jordan last October.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I arrived in Aqaba from Istanbul at 3 am on 17 February and
hopped into a taxi to the center of town.
My cab driver was a friendly man from the hill town of Tafileh who
welcomed me profusely back to Jordan, complimented my Arabic and then promptly
tried to overcharge me. Some things never change. :)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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As I stepped out of the taxi and Mohammed, the Egyptian receptionist
at the much loved <i>funduk al Quds</i>
(Jerusalem Hotel), smiled gently as he helped me to gather my bags, a sudden sense
of well-being washed over me. I realized that as far as I may be from my family
and country of birth, I have, indeed, returned home. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C-CAxF6k994/Uxr5JCPCvGI/AAAAAAAAE30/Ab890BXqN3Q/s1600/1653984_1377010749238048_1050663089_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C-CAxF6k994/Uxr5JCPCvGI/AAAAAAAAE30/Ab890BXqN3Q/s1600/1653984_1377010749238048_1050663089_n.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aqaba and the Red Sea <br />Photo courtesy <a href="https://www.facebook.com/alamer.chalets?fref=ts">Al Amer Chalets</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<!--EndFragment--></div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-87125937717533483462013-12-17T08:26:00.002-08:002014-01-05T17:20:36.728-08:00The Practice of a Renunciate is Not the Practice of a Householder<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">For the past two weeks, I've been participating
in a yoga teacher training course at <a href="http://kripalu.org/"><span style="color: windowtext;">Kripalu</span></a>, a retreat center in Western
Massachusetts. The yogic tradition fascinates me because it is being
embraced in its modern form by so many people from my background - European -
American - educated - middle - upper middle class - and also because of the
fear that yoga invokes in some interpretations of Islam that I’ve come across
in Jordan. The month long course, split into two two week sessions,
allows me to gain a fuller understanding of how yoga is taught, to developing
greater physical awareness and also to gain skills that will allow me to offer
a holistic approach in personal growth and development to my students.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Now - what have I found?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The first week of the course, one of my
teachers said to me: "The practice of a renunciate is not the
practice of a householder." </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">When I first heard this statement, my mind jumped
immediately to a comparison of the physical practices of Islam and yoga.
As a yogi at Kripalu, I am expected to engage in nearly four hours of
physical practice per day. As a Muslim anywhere in the world, the
physical requirement of worship is five daily prayers which at a minimum add up
to 30 minutes of physical movement. In my mind, yoga at Kripalu offers a
physical practice for a renunciate while Islam, with no monastic tradition,
calls for a world of householders and offers a subtle yet powerful physical
practice. I should also clarify that while Muslim prayer is a clearly
defined devotional act, physical yoga practice at Kripalu is an exercise
designed to promote health and wellness. Islam externalizes that which we
worship, Kripalu yoga internalizes it. Note also that while Islam i<b>s</b> submission
to the will of God, yoga in the original Vedic Sanskrit expresses union,
connection, addition and joining together.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The morning after receiving the above statement,
I emerged from a deep, hour and forty five minute physical practice with my
head in the clouds, feeling a desire to stay there - avoiding the people around
me and their apparent quirks - I've discovered that when my mind is quiet, I
can often pick up on the louder thoughts and feelings of those around me - for
better or for worse :) The hour plus period between the end of morning
yoga and the first class is held in silence and on my way to breakfast, I found
myself dodging gazes, interactions and greetings. I appreciated my
alone-ness though simultaneously feeling awkward and a bit guilty
for withholding my greetings to other souls. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">How do we greet others from a place of silence?
I reflected. Can we truly live a full life if we avoid interactions with
other people?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Though a bit of peace felt good as I ate
breakfast (during which I chose not to have eggs because they seemed too
loud!), I found myself slowly waking up to the physical world around me -
the place where humans live and learn, exist and embrace our lives.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">After this experience, I felt that the physical
yoga practice I had engaged in created an over emphasis on the
individual and a forgetfulness of the human community - which makes some
sense - if one spends four hours a day in an intense individual practice.
As I have learned more about yoga, particularly some of the elements that
dictate how a yogi interacts with other humans, I recognize that though modern
yoga does place emphasis on the individual, the community is not forgotten.
It is simply the case that yoga as an individually oriented practice
dictates the expectations of a renunciate as he or she develops him or
herself within a spiritually conscious community. Although most
practitioners of yoga in the US today are not renunciates, I’ve come to believe
that the individual oriented nature of the practice is more resonant in a
society that emphasizes the individual and his or her experience.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Islam, as I have experienced it in Jordan, in
contrast, meets the needs of a householder within a greater community of
spiritually dedicated Muslims. The five prayers bookend the day. We
rise and breakfast at dawn (fair) and spend the morning engaged in work, dhuhr
is prayed at mid-day, followed by lunch and rest-time through early afternoon,
when asr is prayed. After the asr prayer, errands and visits are
performed through sunset and the maghrib prayer and dinner is followed by a
reasonably early bedtime after people pray ishaa. Prophet Mohammed's
statement that the best thing in a righteous life is a righteous spouse
recognizes the unity that can exist between two humans dedicated to building a
life together and the idea that Islam is a surrender not only to God but also
to one's place in the human community.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Ultimately, one chooses a path that is most
relevant to one's life and as the tide of the human experience changes, we move
on from practices that do not adapt to meet the needs of our environment.
I believe that yoga is gaining footing in North America and Europe because
it offers a deeply physical element to a largely desk-bound population, while
also offering a secular framework to those who have distanced themselves from
conventional religion. The deep family oriented nature of dominant interpretations of Islam today thrives
in regions where family bonds reinforce the religious teachings of the Prophet
and vice versa. Simultaneously, as environmental factors such as material
wealth and government regulation increase in Muslim societies, family bonds and
people's approach along with them evolve and change.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Faith and its practice are as dynamic in the
world in which we experience them.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zrmcaiut2to/UrB4yIwhnpI/AAAAAAAAE1M/MCZOJWaS-Kw/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zrmcaiut2to/UrB4yIwhnpI/AAAAAAAAE1M/MCZOJWaS-Kw/s320/unnamed.jpg" height="261" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white;">Elements of Muslim Prayer</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-86547598253288822252013-11-29T20:47:00.000-08:002013-11-30T07:16:11.598-08:00Off to Kripalu!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of the topics that has most intrigued me over the past few years is the concept of multi and inter-faith communications and understanding. Living in a traditional Arab Muslim society, I often struggle to understand what are the true practices of Islam and what are the practices that ultimately stem from culture, adopted into the religion in order to reinforce the identity of the community. <br />
<br />
Earlier this fall, a dear friend and Islamic scholar said to me:<br />
<br />
"Alena, the only red line of Islam is belief in and submission to one God."<br />
<br />
A beautiful statement but one fraught with challenges, as it indicates the possibility that anything goes.<br />
<br />
In the hands of an empowered, self-confident, self-aware individual, I imagine a world of non-judgement, compassion, forgiveness and peace. In the hands of disempowered, insecure, unaware individuals - all hell is likely to break loose.<br />
<br />
Isn't this the case with all things in this world? Ultimately, our world is driven by humanity and the tone of humanity sets the tone for our world and how we experience it.<br />
<br />
To make a long story short, yoga has come under discussion in some Muslim communities - should devout Muslims practice yoga or is it a competing spiritual system which must be avoided so as not to taint or distract from a pure Islamic practice? <br />
<br />
In culinary terms, can we combine chana masala and felafel and enjoy a fulfilling meal that sustains our being? I say yes - after all both dishes are just chick peas in different forms - plus I always find myself dipping my felafel (chickpeas) into my hummus (also chickpeas)! Ok... maybe I need a different metaphor... inshallah, you get the jist.<br />
<br />
I digress ... I'm off to <a href="http://kripalu.org/">Kripalu</a> to participate in a yoga teacher training on Sunday to confirm my belief that though our paths may be different - in the end we are all heading for the same destination.<br />
<br />
Stay tuned!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3H1tk_Qt2d8/Upltp2rraWI/AAAAAAAAE00/O4HRBFmJz_g/s1600/385748_354648287934666_195408404_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3H1tk_Qt2d8/Upltp2rraWI/AAAAAAAAE00/O4HRBFmJz_g/s320/385748_354648287934666_195408404_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by <a href="http://www.cathproductions.nl/CP/">Jolinda Cath</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-11678403123214296142013-11-28T11:54:00.001-08:002013-11-28T11:54:16.372-08:00A New Look ... A New Name ... A New Adventure <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
In 2009, as I ventured off into the world of educational tourism, my godmother suggested that I start a blog as a means of advertising. I posted fairly consistently to South Jordan Sojourn for two years before life took over. Now after some thought and re-evaluation, I have decided to re-name the blog as a means of more accurately portaying the work that I find myself doing in the world. For many years, I've supported the external exploration of the world and its beauty. More and more, however, I find myself supporting the internal exploration of those around and have found that the concept of pilgrimage fits nicely with what I find myself doing. A pilgrimage is a journey of faith through an external world that allows for better understanding of one's inner self and things that are greater than that self. Off we go! :)<div>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AqqjJMFYIpI/Upeey9GsxCI/AAAAAAAAE0k/uGfQNletwPU/s1600/1146482_158405017695446_1152957871_n-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AqqjJMFYIpI/Upeey9GsxCI/AAAAAAAAE0k/uGfQNletwPU/s320/1146482_158405017695446_1152957871_n-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erjud al Matalga, southern Jordan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-11446213306595810392013-10-24T07:58:00.002-07:002013-11-01T09:07:06.017-07:00Nearly Two Years of Silence<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Nearly two years since my last blog post. A good thing, I suppose, as on-line silence has meant off-line adventures! In the past two years so much has happened. I travelled to India and Nepal, Sinai and the West Bank, led and supported five courses for Where There Be Dragons and sat quietly in the southern Jordanian desert. I've just returned to upstate New York to rest for a few months before the adventure continues. After the New Year, I'll return to southern Jordan to re-dedicate myself to the creation of a space that will allow for people to come from all corners of the world to retreat, contemplate and enjoy the silence of the desert. More information to follow... meanwhile, enjoy some images from the past few years :)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sye2_9bvPe0/UmkwvFjlXXI/AAAAAAAAEzA/AGDDE2vIM4w/s1600/62175_573221209363606_2021287030_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sye2_9bvPe0/UmkwvFjlXXI/AAAAAAAAEzA/AGDDE2vIM4w/s320/62175_573221209363606_2021287030_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full Moon, October 2011</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2VhQbn8oY80/Umkw-8h7OgI/AAAAAAAAEzc/w0oddg0LWjU/s1600/camelrace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2VhQbn8oY80/Umkw-8h7OgI/AAAAAAAAEzc/w0oddg0LWjU/s320/camelrace.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camel Race, October 2012<br />
by Fil Kostanecki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9S2LGat9kNo/UmkxAmLiY-I/AAAAAAAAEzs/ce8D1ewPig0/s1600/cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9S2LGat9kNo/UmkxAmLiY-I/AAAAAAAAEzs/ce8D1ewPig0/s320/cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Desert trekking, September 2012<br />
by Fil Kostanecki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tAtwrdNJXVw/UmkxAI6-lsI/AAAAAAAAEzo/DXzmxN3d3u0/s1600/desertclean.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tAtwrdNJXVw/UmkxAI6-lsI/AAAAAAAAEzo/DXzmxN3d3u0/s320/desertclean.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Desert Clean Up, October 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wQMTrVv1LVg/Umkw-aY2D6I/AAAAAAAAEzY/89EW4M_exJA/s1600/IMG_0974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wQMTrVv1LVg/Umkw-aY2D6I/AAAAAAAAEzY/89EW4M_exJA/s320/IMG_0974.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tweisi village, southern Jordan, January 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ard5cwAJr1I/UmkxBspYs8I/AAAAAAAAEz4/HgtaQpWoCbk/s1600/IMG_1452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ard5cwAJr1I/UmkxBspYs8I/AAAAAAAAEz4/HgtaQpWoCbk/s320/IMG_1452.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bozenkill Valley, New York, May 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-63668126475047031212012-01-22T18:07:00.000-08:002012-01-22T18:07:00.309-08:00Sandboarding with Suleiman<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Another highlight of last month was a two day visit to the desert with guests from the US. We took a jeep out past Um Ishreen with Ahmad Radi and there we met my favorite guy from Rum Village, Mr. Suleiman Sabah - the owner of one of the only sandboards in Wadi Rum. With board in hand we climbed some really awesome sand dunes and then flew back down again! A great way to spend a morning! <br />
<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hQX6RUrZvBU/TxzAjchb6NI/AAAAAAAAEtk/q6xVfNWyWvA/s1600/photo+%25281%2529.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hQX6RUrZvBU/TxzAjchb6NI/AAAAAAAAEtk/q6xVfNWyWvA/s320/photo+%25281%2529.PNG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suleiman with Sandboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-1156773834622103292012-01-12T16:45:00.000-08:002012-01-12T16:45:14.970-08:00Adventures with Mosa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As I mentioned in my previous post, some of my greatest adventures and best personal encounters have happened as a result of my involvement with <a href="http://couchsurfing.org/">couchsurfing</a>. Last winter, I hosted Echo from China and through her visit I met Mosa Rawajfeh - a fellow couchsurfing host in Disi, who, over the past year, has become one of my dearest friends out in the desert. Mosa has been working in the field of tourism in Jordan for the past four years and, in addition to managing a small camp in Wadi Rum, also acts as a local guide in Petra. <br />
<br />
Time spent in Petra with Mosa is a fascinating experience. He lived and worked in the site for about a year. Not only does he know everyone who works there and is greeted with great respect, he also knows the secret places and is the perfect guide for their exploration.<br />
<br />
<br />
Last month, I had a group of visitors from the US and we had the great pleasure of exploring Petra's undiscovered spots with Mosa. On the first day, we started in Little Petra. Located about 10 km from the main site, Little Petra was where the Nabateans diverted the caravans that passed through carrying incense from the lands of southern Arabia. Little Petra is also host to the ruins of a Neolithic village, which dates back about 10,000 years. From Little Petra, we hiked to the Monastery, a mountain top facade that was the tomb of one of the Nabateans' greatest kings. This hike was a special experience for us all as it allowed to us to avoid the mobs of tourists who visit the main parts of the site. On the second day, we entered the site through the traditional main siq entrance but then had our lunch close to the Snake Monument which is on the path to Jebel Haroun, the purported resting place of the Prophet Aaron. On our way back we exited the site through Wadi Al Mudlem - the 'dark wadi' and a secret Petra side entrance. A very narrow canyon route, Wadi Al Mudlem involves clambering between narrow walls and scrambling up rock piles deposited by the spring rains. A real adventure and something I'll look forward to doing again soon!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQjn8uSR_F0/Tw9-f-lXwXI/AAAAAAAAEtQ/YnWWoxDzqJo/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQjn8uSR_F0/Tw9-f-lXwXI/AAAAAAAAEtQ/YnWWoxDzqJo/s1600/photo.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosa on the road from Little Petra to the Monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /></div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-91818432769374086272011-12-15T06:27:00.000-08:002011-12-15T06:27:59.896-08:00Fateful Encounters<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've been participating in the <a href="http://couchsurfing.org/">couchsurfing</a> project for a while now. Couchsurfing is an online forum that allows people to host travelers and then be hosted themselves when they travel. I've met a lot of wonderful people through couchsurfing, including my friend Mosa, who manages a camp in Disi and over the past year has become one of my closest friends in Jordan. <div>
<br /></div>
<div>
In early November, I received a couch request from Carmella, who had decided on the spur of the moment to visit Jordan. One chilly Wednesday after Eid, I waited for her in Aqaba as she crossed two borders from Egypt to Israel to Jordan to get here. She arrived with two Spaniards from Cairo in tow and we all headed up together with Suleiman, my regular friendly taxi driver, to Wadi Rum. After dropping off the Spaniards with their guide, we headed out into the desert with my neighbor Salah with the intention of meeting four mysterious ladies who had come to Wadi Rum to camp in the desert. As it was quite late, they had already disappeared into a desert canyon for the night - so Salah, Carmella and I slept next to the fire in the camp, making funny rhymes and attempting a communal dream. In the morning, we awoke to discover that Lana, Ban, Fatima and Ruba had emerged from the desert for breakfast, which we happily shared with them. Very quickly, we became fast friends - chatting excitedly about life, the universe, tradition, community ... everything under the sun. We discovered that Lana has been reading Carmella's <a href="http://whereshegoes.net/">blog</a> for years. We decided that, with the support of Salah and his family, we would create women's camping experiences in the desert. We analyzed gender, cultural and spiritual relations and had an amazing time. Travelers passing through the camp were quite curious about this laughing group of ladies who seemed to be enjoying themselves so much together in a world that is usually populated by men. After breakfast and a walk to the sand dune, we hopped into Ban's Kia (same car as mine but newer model!) and headed back to the village where we visited Salah's mom and sisters, sharing with them our ideas. And then in a flurry of good cheer, the five ladies (minus me) disappeared into the horizon for an <a href="http://www.whereshegoes.net/2011/11/16/">adventure together</a> in Petra. </div>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iC1bi08N0D8/TuoDKcpYPZI/AAAAAAAAEtA/-tNemP-b_FA/s1600/breakfast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iC1bi08N0D8/TuoDKcpYPZI/AAAAAAAAEtA/-tNemP-b_FA/s1600/breakfast.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tasty breakfast!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OqCQboVSlm0/TuoDMS6QxNI/AAAAAAAAEtI/LjY7Jf4dFCY/s1600/breakfastwladies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OqCQboVSlm0/TuoDMS6QxNI/AAAAAAAAEtI/LjY7Jf4dFCY/s320/breakfastwladies.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alena, Fatima, Ruba, Ban, Lana, Carmella - wow!</td></tr>
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</div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-6999342264873400122011-12-07T23:24:00.001-08:002011-12-07T23:36:14.703-08:0011.11.11 Full Moon Yoga and Breathwork Retreat<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Last month, I had the pleasure of welcoming <a href="http://hstrial-easternenterpris.homestead.com/yoga-in-aqaba.html" style="text-align: left;">Lisa Sahakian</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-align: left;"> to Wadi Rum for the first time for a yoga and breathwork retreat under the full moon. The retreat was a fascinating experience for all who attended, allowing us to learn more about ourselves and our world through the practice of kundalini yoga and ecstatic breathwork. This retreat also served as a rallying point for more events to come in Wadi Rum! Keep an eye out for a calendar of events to be published soon for 2012! </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Dinner on 11.11.11<br />
L - R Top: Salah Zawydeh, Lisa Sahakian<br />
L - R Bottom: Alena Bartoli, David Lloyd, Liesbeth Van Der Giessen</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-36592332037790721332011-12-02T00:25:00.001-08:002011-12-02T01:09:45.144-08:00Desert Treasure<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
At the beginning of November, I was waiting at the bus stop on my way to Aqaba when I was approached by Zidan, a friendly, talkative gentleman who works at Disi city hall. <br /><br />"Lina," he said, "Dr. Edoardo is here. You must meet him!"<br />"Can you take me to him?," I replied.<br />"Yes," replied Zidan.<br /><br />Dr. Edoardo - a Disi legend - is a Czech-German-Italian paleoanthropologist who has spent the past 40 years studying Wadi Rum and published over 300 articles - all in Italian - on his findings. <br /><br />And so Zidan and I wandered down the main street of Disi to Dr. Edoardo's house on the far edge of the village. As we proceeded, Zidan took great pleasure in telling the people we met that he was taking me to Dr. Edoardo's house to marry him. <br /><br />"No, no!," I protested, "I'm already married!" To no avail.<br /><br />We arrived and were met by Dr. Edoardo and one of his colleagues. As it turned out, the only language that we shared was Italian and so I found myself translating from Arabic to English to Italian so that everyone could communicate. As I was in a bit of a rush to get to Aqaba, I agreed to meet the two scholars the following day for lunch.<br /><br />I returned the next morning and spent a good part of the day (we had pasta for lunch!) learning about the research that Edoardo and his colleagues had done in the area. Dr. Edoardo's house, which is located on land given to him by Sheikh J'lael, the leader responsible for settling the Zawydeh tribe in Disi, is full of knowledge reflecting the history of the area. The walls of the house are covered with photographs, drawings and articles reflecting his work to date - including several representations of the rock inscriptions found throughout Wadi Rum. Most, if not all, of this rock art - inscriptions of figures and symbols in the sandstone - has been documented by Dr. Edoardo. I was fascinated to learn that the rock art in Wadi Rum can be anywhere from a few thousand years to a few decades old, as this art was the primary method of recording history used by the pastoral Bedouins until their settlement in the later part of the 20th century. My conversation with Dr. Edoardo opened my eyes to the speed and amount of change that has occurred in this part of Jordan over the past century.<br /><br />Of course, I could not leave without a task to complete. As we looked through Dr. Edoardo's books, he informed that someone had inscribed the death of Lawrence (random motorcycle accident or calculated assassination attempt? you be the judge - the artist sure has!) in a cliff out in the desert. He described the place and I told him that I would go to look. And here, the next day, is what we found:<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking a Tumble?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3GS9vtjjaQw/TtiPGIsWSGI/AAAAAAAAEro/G_iHxRKLtss/s1600/DSC01265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3GS9vtjjaQw/TtiPGIsWSGI/AAAAAAAAEro/G_iHxRKLtss/s320/DSC01265.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vroom! Vroom!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sLKrhnapF90/TtiQB33hlFI/AAAAAAAAErw/zPZfUdnaNBg/s1600/DSC01266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sLKrhnapF90/TtiQB33hlFI/AAAAAAAAErw/zPZfUdnaNBg/s320/DSC01266.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">??</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Whole Picture</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-23054248895198944882011-11-24T06:04:00.001-08:002011-11-24T06:11:49.617-08:00Full Moon Wedding Trip Excitement!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of my dearest friends in Aqaba, Zainab Chang owns <a href="http://formosa-aqaba.com/what.html">Formosa Restaurant</a>, where I spend a great deal of time when I am in Aqaba! In recent months, Formosa has become a gathering place for our group of friends. Imagine Cheers - in Jordan - with tasty Chinese food. Seriously. ;)<br />
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In August, Zainab's son Khaled got married to a lovely girl from Taiwan - after their wedding they invited their closest friends on a trip to Jordan! And, of course, one stop was with me in Wadi Rum. Luckily it was a full moon night in October - warm and beautiful! The group rode camels to the camp and feasted on zarb before an enjoyable night climbing sand dunes and exploring the desert. We had a wonderful time together and I hope that they'll be back soon!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HV81JCXRNrs/Ts5QUUwi7iI/AAAAAAAAErg/X4-stVW0xc8/s1600/101311+Group+with+Alena.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HV81JCXRNrs/Ts5QUUwi7iI/AAAAAAAAErg/X4-stVW0xc8/s320/101311+Group+with+Alena.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Lourans House Camp</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-81123299983555597392011-11-17T04:30:00.001-08:002011-11-17T04:37:11.418-08:00Disi Dawn<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've gotten in the habit of rising at dawn. The silence is spectacular and I begin each day with a quiet walk around the neighborhood. It's a chance to organize my thoughts and to prepare for whatever adventures the day will bring. The sunrises are most stunning this time of year, as November brings the occasional cloud and the even more occasional rainstorm to the otherwise dry desert.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cchUs-hQkzg/TsT_t-WMJzI/AAAAAAAAErY/nOGiwM1jkKw/s1600/DSC_0852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cchUs-hQkzg/TsT_t-WMJzI/AAAAAAAAErY/nOGiwM1jkKw/s320/DSC_0852.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn from my front door</td></tr>
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</div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-69607552910172598872011-10-27T04:47:00.000-07:002011-10-27T04:53:50.070-07:00Disi Camel Races! (redux!)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As many of you have come to discover, the Disi camel races are generally of an ephemeral nature. Rumors of their existence occur, sheikhs are known to negotiate over prize money and ultimately the races are held when least expected or not at all. Those who are able to catch their rare occurrence discover a wonderful experience - dashing camels, raging four wheel drive vehicles, nervous owners, each one hoping that his camel will claim a coveted cash prize, put up by the benevolent sheikh, and, of course, a lot of dust!<br />
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As great as these races can be, Mohammad Attallah, the camel race track manager and I thought it might be worth a shot to put on our own set of races, with a firm date and to raise money for a prize by charging for tickets! The result of our efforts are advertised <a href="http://disicamelrace.com/">here</a> and may be enjoyed at the upcoming race on 12 November 2011 in Disi! Hope to see you there!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wfRDs_eGBjk/Tqk3-Wk4XTI/AAAAAAAAEqw/2Q4n0mtUZC4/s1600/DSC_0850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wfRDs_eGBjk/Tqk3-Wk4XTI/AAAAAAAAEqw/2Q4n0mtUZC4/s320/DSC_0850.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And they are off! 14 Oct 11</td></tr>
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</div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-27982260714736329262011-10-20T02:27:00.000-07:002011-10-20T02:27:51.570-07:00Exploring Pharaoh's Island<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A few months ago, a friend who works for <a href="http://sindbadjo.com/">Sindbad</a>, Aqaba's premier company for enjoying the Red Sea (cruises, water sports, ferries), asked me whether I'd be interested in promoting their work. A conversation ensued and we came up with the idea of an overnight cruise to Pharaoh's Island, off the coast of Egypt across the gulf from Aqaba. Named for Ramses II, who is purported to have built its original fort, Pharaoh's Island played a strategic role in protecting the Cairo-Damascus route during the Crusades. It is now home to a renovated citadel, built by Saladin in the 12th century. I had a chance to visit the island last week - it was an amazing experience - the citadel was fascinating to explore and the snorkelling off the reefs that surround the island was among the best I have experienced.<br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northern Citadel, Pharaoh's Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jt15zZonKtw/Tp_c0JMwxGI/AAAAAAAAEqQ/GIiqfzJLJR0/s1600/DSC_0729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jt15zZonKtw/Tp_c0JMwxGI/AAAAAAAAEqQ/GIiqfzJLJR0/s320/DSC_0729.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aboard <i>Aladdin</i></td></tr>
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</div>Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-77787111021170485052011-10-07T12:56:00.000-07:002011-10-07T12:56:47.681-07:00The Luxury is the Difference<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A few weeks ago, I was asked by a friend who edits a luxury magazine to come up with the 'most opulent' possibilities for luxury camping in Wadi Rum. Frankly speaking, I have been waiting for years for this request! My mind instantly shot into high gear as I began to envision private camel races, rides in the King's helicopter and an on-call astronomy expert, who would act as a guide to the night sky. I also did a poll of my best guides, Suleiman Sabbah, Salah Radi and Harb Salem, to see how they would create a truly luxurious experience of their desert homes. Each came up with his own unique plan - incorporating elements such as candle light, night time jeep tours and gourmet desert cuisine. <br />
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As Harb and I drove out into the desert to visit his private camp, we discussed the concept of luxury in the desert. As always, he provided valuable insight - pointing out that for most of his clients, the luxury of the desert was the difference in the experience between their home and his. 'When I make barbeque with my own hands, when I serve them tea that I have made over the fire... that is the luxury... because they are my guests and that is a unique experience of my world."<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harb's Desert Camp</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Front Entrance</td></tr>
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7427868681647767428.post-70843064335618483122011-09-15T01:27:00.000-07:002011-09-15T01:31:35.674-07:00The View from the Back Window<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
For over a year now, I've been fortunate to call the village of Disi, located on the northern edge of the Wadi Rum Nature Reserve, home. Disi is also home to the 3.000 member strong Zawydehs, a subtribe of the Jordanian Howeitat family, who were made famous by Audeh Abu Tayeh in Lawrence of Arabia. Disi was settled in 1967 at the behest of King Hussein, who provided Sheikh Jaleel, the leader of the tribe, with all the accoutrements of settled life - from schools and homes to water and electricity. In exchange, the tribe continues to give its allegiance to the Hashemite Kingdom and many of the graduates of the boys' school in the village continue on to careers in the military. Disi has grown exponentially over the past 50 years - once home to a few tents, it now lays claim to a water station, post office, two schools, a medical clinic and the homes of hundreds of families. One of my favorite things about my home is the sandstone mountain that acts as a back drop for life here. Every morning for the past few days, I have woken to see the moon setting over the mountain and in the evening the sun sets behind it. Kids play in the nooks and crannies and the names of at least one generation may be found carved in the soft rock. Here it is!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out the window...</td></tr>
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Alena Bartolihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08376501899351172428noreply@blogger.com0