I wore niqab for
the first time during the four hour ride by shared taxi from Amman to Aqaba. I arrived to Amman’s south bus station
shortly after dark. Clad in a cream
colored scarf and niqab, I presented as an educated, yet devout woman –
possibly travelling for work or family reasons.
“Marhaba ya uhti,”
the driver spoke softly to me – using a polite tone and a greeting appropriate
to an uht (sister) – applied
to a woman in recognition of her devotion to Islamic practice.
“Would you like to sit in front?” he continued. I nodded quietly – accepting the offer of a seat
which would ostensibly allow me to relax at a distance from the other (male)
passengers.
This was the first shared taxi ride from Amman to the south in
which I was asked no personal questions, offered no cigarettes and treated with
complete deference by all present.
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